Grotte di Su Marmuri: a day between rain and sunshine

Grotte di Su Marmuri: an outing between rain and sunshine

There are days in Sardinia when the weather seems to decide the itinerary.

This one began with rain.

We got in the car and set off for Ulassai, in the heart of Ogliastra, beneath overcast skies, planning to visit the Grotte di Su Marmuri.

To be honest, with all that rain, we weren't even sure it was the right day. But the weather, especially between the coast and the mountains, can change quickly. So we decided to go anyway.

Towards the Grotte di Su Marmuri

The road to Ulassai is already part of the experience.

Leaving the coast behind, the landscape gradually changes. The road climbs, the mountains become ever more prominent, and greenery replaces the open spaces we have left behind.

That day, the rain made everything even more distinctive. The rocks were dark, the vegetation's colours were richer, and the landscape seemed almost unlike the Sardinia we are used to seeing in summer.

Then, almost without warning, the weather began to change.

The clouds parted and the sun appeared just as we approached the caves.

Inside the Grotte di Su Marmuri

The Grotte di Su Marmuri are an experience I would consider if you want to explore Ogliastra beyond its beaches.

As soon as you enter, the surroundings change completely.

Outside, we had just been through rain and sunshine. Inside, everything becomes quieter, and the temperature changes.

The cave extends into the limestone massif, and the route lets you see up close the rock formations shaped by water over immense geological timescales.

What I like about places like this is precisely that contrast: in just a few minutes, you can go from the open mountain landscape to an entirely different world hidden underground.

Coming out into the sunshine

Perhaps my fondest memory, though, is of what came next.

When we came out, the sky had completely changed.

The sun lit up the mountains around Ulassai, and the landscape looked entirely different from what we had seen on arrival.

It is one reason why, when travelling in Sardinia, I try not to let the weather discourage me too much.

A cloudy day does not necessarily mean a wasted day.

Sometimes it simply means seeing the same place in a different light.

A different kind of day in Ogliastra

If you are staying at Villa Marea and want to spend a day in the more mountainous part of Ogliastra, the Grotte di Su Marmuri are an idea I would consider.

I would set off without rushing, especially if the weather is uncertain. The area around Ulassai deserves to be explored slowly, and if the sun returns, all the better.

Because this is one of the things I love most about Sardinia: you can set off expecting a grey day and, a few hours later, find yourself in the sunshine, surrounded by mountains.

And in the end, perhaps it is the change of plans that makes the day more interesting.